Trendy brasserie, roadside restaurant and Ukrainian cuisine, our good addresses of the week in Paris

EAT WELL IN PARIS #74 — Restaurants, grocery stores, wine shops, pastries, cocktail bars… Our food critic hands out the “Ts”. This week on the test bench: Dame Augustine, Le Duguesclin and Oranta.

Lady Augustine r

Some people stop here for the terrace at the Gobelins metro exit. Others, because they are fans of the new cook, Lilian Douchet, candidate for the 13th season of Excellent chef. If I wrinkle my nose at the annoying presence of possessive adjectives on the menu (” her “ ice cream, ” son “ emulsion, as if the preparations were going to venture into another dish) and at the sight of the high prices in this trendy brasserie setting, I am silent when the plates arrive – and not only because we are not talking not with a full mouth. The egg with haddock, celery, parmesan shortbread for the crunch and dill oil for the freshness, breaks the codes as a starter. The dishes, in generous portions, are well seasoned and worked on the level of texture: beef “crispy-melting” with carrots, tenderloin with aubergines softened by a siphoned milling sauce. It’s good and well done, without fuss. Gourmet dessert with strawberry, rhubarb and basil. If you are from the neighborhood, do not hesitate.

32 Ave. Goblins, 13th. 01 83 92 85 98. Tue to low. 12pm-2.30pm and 7pm-10.15pm. Lunch menu €26, 3-course menu €46, à la carte €50.

The Duguesclin q

The Duguesclin roadside restaurant.

Photo Laure Ledoux for Télérama

There are still a few truck drivers in the Paris region, to eat there in the blink of an eye, take a shower and take a break. And employees of car spare parts warehouses or nearby food wholesalers are very happy to be able to count on this canteen, where they are greeted by their first name and where the bottle of Portuguese red wine is already waiting for them on the table. Crudités formula and house dish or comforting pizza – as quickly swallowed as forgotten, but it allows you to vary the menus – the order is taken in two minutes with a smile; the plates will arrive for a short trip to the salad buffet. “There’s the same thing all year round, but at least it doesn’t come out of a tray”, expounds a regular, filling his bowl to the brim with celery remoulade (honest), marinated herring and cochineal pink Danish salami (guilty pleasure). Steak on horseback or navarin of lamb landed fissa with their fries, “more golden around 1:30 p.m., when the oil is hotter”. On the wall, the TV spits out LCI; it talks about the food prices which are panicking, which makes you wonder if the bill will also soon go up here, a timeless enclave that still knows very well what eating out means.

At the corner of 1, rue Duguesclin and 70, rue Edith-Cavell, 94 Vitry-sur-Seine. 01 46 80 30 48. Mon. to Fri. 6am-10pm. Lunch menus €12.80-14.30.

Oranta r

Oranta, Ukrainian restaurant.

Oranta, Ukrainian restaurant.

Photo Laure Ledoux for Télérama

Those who flee their country often take souvenirs and culinary recipes with them to keep it alive, if only from afar. Alina Wolf, who has lived in France for twenty years, opened her restaurant in the summer of 2021 close to the Opéra-Comique to introduce people to authentic Ukrainian cuisine – background music in the original version as a bonus. Soup, ravioli, salads, meat dishes, there is a beautiful palette to explore. Like the Daisy for pizzerias, borsch is an excellent qualitative reference, and it is essential to taste it here: beets, cabbage, carrots and pork are cooked with a touch of acidity in a broth flavored with fresh herbs, much more delicate than we imagine, and even better escorted by a pampouchek, garlic and dill donut, cousin of garlic bread. The vareneke, large ravioli lightly shaped by hand and boiled, come in potato, cheese or sauerkraut, and cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice hide under a pleasant creamy tomato sauce. Discreet welcome, efficient service: a good embassy.

1, rue de Marivaux, 2nd. 01 89 32 35 79. Tue. to Fri. noon-2.30 p.m. and 7 p.m.-10.30 p.m., Sat. and low. 11am-4pm and 6pm-11pm. Lunch menus €13-15, à la carte €30 approx. Vegetarian option. Res. the inconvenients.

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