The Auberge du Sauvage, in Rempnat, combines quality traditional cuisine and exotic dishes

Wooden tables, installed in the grass, in the shade of the foliage during the day, in the polychrome glow of a multicolored garland, like a guinguette, once the darkness of a summer evening has fallen.

Bucolic and rural atmosphere. A peace that nothing ostentatious or overplayed seems able to betray in the intimacy of the town of Rempnat, a tiny village lost on the upper Viennese margins of the Plateau de Millevaches, in the heart of unspoiled and… wild nature.

It is in this setting that Gilles Charannat dropped anchor, he, the former soldier of the Navy who spent twenty-two years of missions at the other end of the world and travels by sea and dale.

The uniform and stripes put away, he became a medico-social executive for a time. But Gilles wanted one last challenge, a fiercely human project, rich in meaning and involvement in local life.

This is how, in 2017, in search of the right “small business”, he one day goes through Rempnat. Camping in the middle of a village of eighteen souls, a small restaurant is to be taken over: L’Auberge du Sauvage.

Between tradition and exoticism

Heart stroke. He inquires, puts together a file, his candidacy is accepted by the town hall. To his credit, qualities of rigor and organization but above all, above all, a mad desire to do well, in a humanist approach and of conviction without falling into the trap of a sectarian and rigid approach.

On the catering side: the enthusiasm and experience of the autodidact respond to a mixed taste for world cuisines as well as for traditional Corrèze recipes that were those of his grandmother.

“I started with a tight menu, with “franchouillard” dishes, others more exotic and finally vegetarian dishes. By giving priority to seasonal, fresh and organic products, and if possible from short circuits”, explains Gilles who assumes not to give in to the ease of steak and fries or pizza, any more than that of sodas.

Receive our leisure newsletter by email and find ideas for outings and activities in your region.

NL {“path”:”mini-registration”,”id”:”PC_Leisure”,”accessCode”:”14150690″,”allowGCS”:”true”,”bodyClass”:”ripo_generic”,”contextLevel”:”KEEP_ALL “,”filterMotsCles”:”3|10|12|162″,”gabarit”:”generic”,”hasEssentiel”:”true”,”idArticle”:”4150690″,”idArticlesList”:”4150690″,”idDepartment “:”306″,”idZone”:”39613″,”motsCles”:”3|10|12|162″,”premium”:”true”,”pubs”:”banniere_haute|article”,”site”: “PC”,”sousDomain”:”www”,”urlTitle”:”lauberge-du-sauvage-a-rempnat-mixes-quality-traditional-cuisine-and-exotic-dishes”}

However, he does not take himself for what he is not, refusing to position himself on a gastronomic or other niche, preferring to focus on the simplicity and sincerity of a cuisine that resembles him, between rougail sausage and milhassou Corrèze.

A sacred tandem

But he is not alone in the adventure, he can count on a Creusoise, sommelier by training, who was already working at L’Auberge du Sauvage, before the arrival of Gilles: Floriane Nicolas.

At 33, the young woman seems to flourish in this tandem while complicity and mutual respect, where everyone brings their ideas, their techniques and their desires of the moment. Thus, Floriane has built up quite a list of natural wines that she has selected without concession, while Gilles has put together an astonishing collection of local liqueurs and aperitifs.

A sense of balance that can be found even in this dish of green asparagus, pistachio cream and beautifully dressed brook trout eggs. Nothing to complain about: cooking to the millimeter, alliance of flavors and accuracy of seasonings.
Indeed, whoever says world cuisine thinks of spices and it’s true that in each dish, spices and condiments are very present, but without ever masking, burning or denaturing. On the contrary, they do the job throughout the meal, enhancing here, sublimating there.

Spices in their place

Same observation with this fillet of brook trout from Vézère (from Bugeat), its mashed potatoes and its astonishing caillade arranged, without forgetting this dash of black lemon from Iran which takes you on a beautiful sensory discovery.

But I could also have told you about this Indian recipe for lamb Shahi korma and its oriental elk sauce. A silky blend of flavors where La Coquille, a natural Aveyron wine from the famous Patrick Rols, has found its place.

And it’s not this kiwi sorbet with mint and lime and its peppery chocolate coulis that will bring a downside to a flawless meal where you haven’t been bored for a second.

So yes, undeniably, Gilles has won his bet: without taking himself for what he is not, he has managed to satisfy us with what he is, a man faithful to his values, for whom tradition is not not incompatible with the trip of the moment, according to a sincere approach and a requirement in terms of quality and origin of the product.

This is how, quietly and driven by the great dynamic of word of mouth, L’Auberge du Sauvage has established itself as an essential address in the Plateau.

The product

Folivora. Want a spread? You have the choice between the industrial routine with the same standardized taste for ages, and then a spread full of flavor and delicacy created by craftsmen by Camille Micheaux, based in Saint-Denis-des-Murs. Its approach is local and virtuous. Thus, the raw hazelnuts used come from Lot-et-Garonne, the chocolate is also French, as are the glass jars from Corrèze and the labels printed in Limousin on recycled cane fiber. Guaranteed without added oil, Camille’s spread has a beautiful texture, supple and melting in the mouth with a real taste of hazelnut, both intense and subtle, with a good length in the mouth, especially when you taste the one made with 70% noise. Only concern; when you started to put your nose in, not easy to close the pot!

Wine

The Shell 2020. From the fine wine list of L’Auberge du Sauvage, Floriane had selected a Coquille which turned out to be… far from empty. This red wine in the Vin de Pays de l’Aveyron appellation comes from Conques where Patrick Rols officiates, a reference in terms of natural wine. It was in the early 2000s that this enthusiast replanted a vineyard, working as naturally as possible, without inputs or sulfites, driven by the desire to let his wines tell the story of the land and the seasons. And it is clear that this 2020 vintage has great qualities. Starting with its fruity nose. If in the mouth we would expect to find the tannic and rustic side of a Marcillac (Aveyron appellation), this blend of Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon offers us a lot of freshness and balance, with controlled tannins and a lot of elegance. Ideal with a cheese or charcuterie platter, red meat, or even exotic dishes, such as those that can be tasted at Rempnat.

Fabrice Varieras

.

Leave a Comment